Is it time for Emma Thompson to ditch Boodles?

For a long time, I have wondered why Emma Thompson gives Boodles a veneer of virtue that they dont deserve.

The jewellery industries flaws are well known, brutal and, ongoing and while fairtrade gold and other great initiatives have been around since the early to mid 2000’s Boodles hasn’t integrated them into their business yet Emma advocates for them,  enthusiastically. Including in the 2014 documentary, The Million pound necklace: Inside Boodles.

As a well-known climate and ‘’human rights activist’’ it would seem obvious that any brand she promotes or is involved with, is, in 2020, making as much effort as possible to reduce their carbon footprint and the impact of their supply chain on the people within it.  This doesn’t seem to be the case with Boodles. The contrast between Emma’s campaigning, the environmental and human cost of the jewellery supply chain and Boodles indifference to it are startling.

The issues with the jewellery industry are starker than most, though they are well and deliberately, hidden and obscured.

The issues around diamonds especially, are well known and documented,  while there are currently no wars funded by diamonds on the scale of the civil wars in Sierra Leone and Angola, mass fraud, oppression, money laundering and violence are ongoing, within the framework of the Kimberley Process.

The gold industry has escaped the glare of Hollywood but 4 times as much gold by weight and value are used in jewellery production than diamonds and many of the same issues apply.

Back in 2017, I e-mailed Boodles for their comments about a story I was writing about how a Global witness report, which outlines how serious failings with the Kimberley Process have allowed diamonds funding conflict in the CAR to be smuggled into Cameroon and allowed to enter the global trade, had been ignored by the jewellery trade press.  

Whilst at first, James Amos and then Jody Wainwright were kind enough to exchange emails with me, the conversation dried up when I asked if they had integrated fairtrade gold into their supply chain. 

There is no indication that they have (they are neither a registered goldsmith or licensee) despite having been aware of the scheme since its inception.

They were involved and present at the launch of the scheme however in the 10 years or so since have failed to integrate the gold into their products.  Being closely associated with something positive yet declining to take on the financial and logistical responsibility to actually implement it stinks of a cynical PR exercise.

Emma came in for some criticism following her decision to fly in for a climate change demonstration and this follows a similar line.  A celebrity with influence campaigning on behalf of a cause her actions undermine Encouraging people to make sacrifices she herself is unwilling to make.

I find it hard to believe that Emma isn’t aware of the failings within the jewellery industry.  There have been several high profile reports by NGOS like global witness about the diamond supply chain over the years.

While diamonds get the headlines, gold is arguably a more significant issue, four times as much gold is used in jewellery production by diamonds and many of the same issues are involved.  Exploitation, environmental damage etc.

The jewellery industry is notoriously opaque and the lack of traceability makes it hard to know exactly where materials have come from. Once they have entered the international market they are impossible to trace.

Initiatives like Fairtrade gold and Fairmined have proven, in the face of much doubt that these issues can be addressed.  Traceability, workers right, fair pay, environmental protection, all things you would think a brand Emma likes would embrace, rather than avoid.

In terms of comparable brands, Boodles lag behind.  Chopard has incorporated Fairmined Gold into their jewellery.  Stephen Webster is a fully-fledged Fairtrade gold licensee and Pippa Small is a Fairmined Licensee.  

So Why doesn’t Emma support brands that more closely align with her values?  As well as the brands mentioned above there are many, albeit smaller and less well-known jewellery brands out there who have gone above and beyond to make sure they are doing their best when it comes to ethical sourcing.