JEMMA WHITEHOUSE Interview

Slow fashion is definitely having a moment. It seems now, so many of us are becoming more conscious of the environment, and the impact of manufacturing. So, it’s only natural that we start to favour fashion and jewellery brands that link up with our sustainable values as we reaffirm our thoughts.

In the past, jewellery labels have had to face a variety of ethical issues – after all, it’s no secret that gold and diamonds have long been mined under dubious conditions. Today, it’s reassuring to know that jewellery designers such as Jemma Whitehouse are looking to realign their production process by focusing solely on sustainability, and by treating its workers and the environment with respect and dignity.

Founded in 2020, Jemma’s eponymous label is committed to using precious materials that are sourced under Fair Trade conditions. Seeking inspiration from literature, movement and emotion, Jemma’s debut collection entitled ‘Transient’ is inspired by her curiosity for ideas beyond the physical realm, and works with concepts she sees in her mind's eye.

Each piece is handmade in the UK, and presents striking statement silhouettes with a bohemian flair. The collection includes a duo of bold knotted necklaces, hoop earrings, and striking rings shaped into open structures, these pieces are cast from 24K gold plated bronze, as well as recycled silver and look equally bold when worn on their own or to complement other treasured trinkets. Our personal highlight includes the beautifully crafted Transient ring, this piece is cast from 18K yellow gold and is encrusted with an array of pavé-set diamonds totalling 0.58 carats, alongside emerald-hued peridot gems. Below, we chatted with Jemma to gain some insight into her process and practices.

How did you first hear about Fairtrade gold?

I first heard about it when I attended a talk hosted by Ute Decker at the Cockpit Arts in 2017. Ute was one of the first jewellers to launch a collection created using gold that is Fairtrade certified.

What inspired you to use Fairtrade gold?

Purchasing products that are Fairtrade certified can help reduce poverty, encourage environmentally friendly production methods and safeguard humane working conditions. I did some research into Fairtrade mining and it shocked me to discover that gold mining is deemed to be one of the world’s most dangerous jobs. Industrial mining destroys land and due to the use of dirty practices such as open pit mining and cyanide heap leaching, mining companies generate about 20 tons of toxic waste for every 0.333-ounce gold ring. With this information and research, it seemed that using Fairtrade Gold would align with my beliefs and help communities.

What is the inspiration behind your collection?

The inspiration for the Transient collection came at a time when I experienced loss. I started researching different cultural beliefs about the afterlife, this included ceremonies which celebrated this transition. My work incorporates concepts that are beyond our physical realm as well as using narrative and literature to ignite imagination and raise questions. Loss is something that we all experience in life. My jewellery allows connection to these moments, each person’s story is varied yet the foundations are the same.  

How easy was it to get Fairtrade materials?

I’ve had pieces cast in Fairtrade Gold sourced via a casting company. Although it’s fairly easy for me to acquire Fairtrade gold, the casting company told me in September 2019 that they faced many hurdles when applying for the Fairtrade Gold registration. At present, there appears to be uncertainty around how the Fairtrade hallmark is applied to a piece - this process is being investigated at the moment. Also from various conversations with other jewellery designers, not many are requesting Fairtrade gold, although I was told by the casting company that it is starting to gain traction. Hopefully with the demand for more, it will help to streamline the process of applying for the registration. 

How did you research Fairtrade gold?

The Fairtrade official website provides a free online training course on becoming a ‘Fairtrade Gold Sales Ambassador’. Having access to this means it’s accessible for everyone, plus, I also had discussions with a handful of people within the jewellery industry. They told me to remain open-minded in my approach, which helped, I found that although one company was registered to use fairtrade gold, they had been made aware it was of no advantage. This was because they’d heard some owners of the Fairtrade mines were making a profit that wasn’t benefitting the mining communities. With this knowledge, the casting company stopped sourcing Fairtrade Gold. I believe this is why it’s so important to do your research.

What has the reaction been to your Fairtrade gold pieces, do people have questions?

These days, it’s reassuring to know that more people question the ethical and sustainable source of pieces they invest in. Although Fairtrade products generally cost more to purchase, the majority of consumers are prepared to pay this to support their beliefs. 

Do you use any other Fair Trade materials? 

For now, I envisage my collections consisting only of metal but in the future when I consider using gemstones, I’ll be sure to use Fairtrade options where they are available and accessible.

Do you have any general thoughts about the jewellery supply chain?

I believe it needs to be more transparent, especially as to where materials are sourced. It’s also imperative for more research to be conducted on the percentage of profits that the mining communities receive from the mine owners.